Meet the Makers

When the pandemic hit, the French atelier where Yaqi Sun worked as a pattern maker closed its doors. “We’d been working together for five years,” she recalls. “But during the pandemic, the owner, Nicolas, decided to move back to France with his family.“

Finding herself without full-time work as the fashion industry slowed, Yaqi decided to take a leap. “Nobody was hiring a full-time pattern maker during that time,” she says. “So, I thought maybe I should run a small space and try to do something myself. And Nicolas introduced me to some clients. That’s very important, in the beginning, to have some clients already trust you. I’m very grateful.”

From a tiny space that “could barely fit three people,” Yaqi launched Atelier YQS, a full-service pattern making and sample room. Today, the business has grown into a sought-after studio in Manhattan’s Garment District, where Yaqi and her small team develop intricate patterns and samples for designers, runway collections, bridal gowns, red carpet events, and celebrity alterations.

Specializing in eveningwear and couture-quality pieces, Atelier YQS often takes on technically complex projects that other sample rooms can’t handle. Yaqi explains that the studio’s strength lies in its meticulous approach: rather than juggling many jobs at once, they focus deeply on a few projects, ensuring that each garment receives exceptional attention to detail.

The process is hands-on and time-intensive. Yaqi begins with a designer’s sketches and fabric swatches, draping muslin on mannequins, refining patterns, and creating multiple samples and fittings before producing a final garment.

Running Atelier YQS has required Yaqi to step far beyond pattern making. “It’s not only doing the technical things,” she says. “I had to learn how to do bookkeeping, pay bills, reply to all the emails, talk with clients and maintain relationships. It’s a big challenge for me. I learned a lot.” But Yaqi’s approach leads to deeper client relationships and repeat work.

Operating in New York City comes with additional hurdles—especially the cost of doing business. “The rent and the labor is getting very, very expensive,” Yaqi says. “When I just started after the pandemic, the rent was amazing—and now it’s climbing every year.”

Still, Yaqi feels the Garment District is irreplaceable. “If you want to do fashion in the U.S., this is the only city for it.“ Factories, trim stores, and fabric stores are all within walking distance from her studio.