Meet the Makers

In an era dominated by technological advancements and global trade, the state of manufacturing in 21st century New York often goes unnoticed. However, Martin Greenfield Clothiers, a decades-old garment-making business, has managed to survive and thrive in this ever-changing landscape. In this interview, Tod Greenfield, the son of founder Martin Greenfield, provides insights into the changes and challenges faced by New York manufacturers and sheds light on the importance of preserving the manufacturing sector in the city.

In the past, manufacturing focused on producing bulk orders for department stores. However, the advent of computers and business-driven decision-making shifted the industry’s dynamics. Companies started prioritizing cost-cutting measures, searching for cheaper manufacturing alternatives overseas. This led to the closure of numerous factories in New York, resulting in job losses and a decline in the industry.

Facing these challenges, Tod’s father purchased his employer’s factory and opened Martin Greenfield Clothiers in 1977 when many other factories were closing. A Holocaust Survivor and a Ukrainian immigrant, Martin had the cards stacked against him, but he found a way to success. They adapted to the changing landscape by embracing the emerging trends of designer clothing. Unlike department store-owned factories, Martin Greenfield Clothiers had the flexibility to produce clothing for different customers, including designers. This allowed them to survive and serve a diverse clientele.

While modern factories rely on automation and standardized processes, Martin Greenfield Clothiers maintains a traditional hand-tailoring approach. This results in supple, high-quality garments that provide freedom of movement and a superior fit. Their expertise in hand-tailoring also enables them to produce period-specific clothing for movies and TV shows, which modern automated factories struggle to replicate. “You see that the people in here, everyone has a scissor in their hand,” Tod says of his tailors. “Everybody’s like a hundred-year-old machine making pieces fit and trimming them to make them fit. So we don’t need to retool a tailor with a scissor in his hand. We can just let him go and he’ll make the garment look nice.” This seemingly “old school” approach has given them a unique advantage by keeping them relevant while attracting niche customers.

Despite their success (they dressed Bill Clinton back in the day and were used as a central location in TV’s The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel), Tod acknowledges the challenges faced by manufacturers in New York. Rising costs, the pressure to find cheaper production alternatives, and the focus on cost-saving measures often lead to a decline in domestic manufacturing. Profit, he notes, is not the driving force behind Martin Greenfield Clothiers’ decision to remain in New York. Instead, the company’s commitment to their employees, the neighborhood, and the responsibility they feel towards their customers and the business keeps them rooted in the city. “Between the 70 employees, there must be some close to 300 people right now that survive off of what we do here,” Tod says.

Looking ahead, Tod discusses Martin Greenfield Clothiers’ plans to digitize the back-end processes of their business. This shift to digital systems will streamline operations and reduce administrative burdens, allowing them to focus more on manufacturing and selling. This move towards digitization is seen as a step towards the future and will enable the company to explore new opportunities and drive business growth.

Tod points out that while the city needs housing and development, it also requires manufacturing, distribution, and repair facilities. Manufacturing provides employment opportunities and plays a crucial role in the country’s self-sufficiency. Protecting and supporting manufacturing is essential for a balanced and thriving urban ecosystem. “Manufacturing is important and deserves to be protected,” Tod says.

The state of manufacturing in 21st century New York has witnessed significant changes and challenges. While many factories have closed or moved their operations elsewhere, Martin Greenfield Clothiers has managed to adapt and keep the spirit of New York manufacturing alive. The company continues to contribute to the city’s economy, provide jobs, and offer unique products that stand out in a world dominated by mass production.